Bikomaniacs Bhutan Memories Part 3

Paro - Local sight seeing

30th May 2017, Tuesday

Two days of national holiday (30 , 31st of May),had been declared by Bhutan Government. All the offices were closed including Thimphu immigration office, where extended permit would be issued to visit other protected areas of Bhutan like - Phobjhika, Trongsa, Zemzhang,Gelephu. Because of the holidays, we couldn't visit any Dzongs; could not see national museum; had a prolonged stay ( one extra day) in Thimphu.

We woke up fresh, in the morning.

Through the window there was a breathtaking view - snow capped himalayan mountain. In the night we couldn't appreciate the beauty of the resort. It resembled a garden with so many colourful flower plants.

The day was cold and bright with sunlight. The images were crystal clear - like in 4k resolution LED Tv -as if someone had cleaned everything - air , plants, trees and buildings. The air was so pure. The silence was a “real silence”. Littered with high decibel city noise, it took some time for our ears to get adjusted to it. 

Had breakfast. Went for Paro local sight seeing.

We came out of the resort and joined Paro- Thimphu highway. Don’t get intimidated by the name. It was a simple two lane empty road. 

Paro is situated in a narrow valley. In these valley towns most of the places, roads and rivers run along, creating scenic views for pleasurable motor bike ride.River Paro Chhu was the accompanying friend of Paro-Thimphu road. The glacier melted water was sparkling clean, without any pollution.

We crossed Paro international airport before entering into the town. That is the only major airport Bhutan has. Thimphu, the capital town doesn't have one.

It appeared as a small lazy town. 

I thought Bhutan was a poor country; people would be in poverty; living in huts; riding bicycles. That was the picture in my mind.

But what we saw was contrasting. Their standard of living looked pretty good, may be equivalent to european standards.Rarely we saw two wheelers on road. Most of them travelled by cars and suvs. Land  cruiser- prado was there everywhere like maruthi suzuki in india. 

Impressed by the nature and the living standards I thought of immigrating in to Bhutan. Enquired about hospitals, medical colleges. Surprised to know that they had only a few hospitals. It seems, they send “ brighter students “ to India to study medicine. India helps Bhutan in every aspect. Laying highways, training army, providing petrol,oil, gases etc. Hindi tele-serials too have started infiltrating.They have huge respect for India and Indians. We never felt, we were in a foreign country.

In Valleys weather changes so rapidly. Became cloudy in no time and started drizzling. We were loitering around the main Paro town. Took some photos outside a Dzong, visited an art gallery, had lunch. Thought of visiting Chele La Pass and  Ho valley. Deferred in the end due to rain( drizzle) and lack of time.

Went back to resort for dinner. Heavy rains started and lashed out through out the night. Next day’s Tigers nest trekking was in jeopardy. But when we have swamys around - why to worry. Prophetic Karthi told with almost certainty that next day morning weather would be clear without any rains?!!

Had a spiritual session with swamys. I had been suffering from GER( Gastro Esophageal Reflex). Whenever I consumed spiritual drinks, invariably vomited during early morning hours. Pantop D helped. But we all do foolish things by not listening to logics. That day, it was my turn. Consumed without pantopD, vomited at around 3 am. Woke up in the morning with severe dehydration and throbbing headache. It was not a good sensation at all. People who experienced it, know well. Took analgesics, waited for an hour , headache got better. Didn't want to miss the chance to visit the most important tourist destination of Bhutan.

Weather was clear!

Tiger’s nest Trekking

It is located 15 kms away from Paro.

It is also called as Paro Taktsang which is perched on a mountain cliff, 900 meters above ground level, 3120 meters (10,240ft) above sea level. It is a Buddhist Monastery built by Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye in 1692.

The name came from the story saying that Indian Guru Padmasambhava flew from Tibet on the back of a tigress to this mountain cliff and meditated in a cave for three years,three months, three weeks, three days and three hours(three minutes, three seconds???). He introduced Buddhism to Bhutan.It is a four temple complex built around the cave he meditated.

Only way to reach Tiger’s nest is by hiking, unless otherwise you know how to fly or have a flying tigress!! For those who can’t hike, up to half way, till the Cafeteria ,one can hire a pony to carry. 

It was not a very steep climb. But the trail was slippery in some places. No proper steps. Sometimes rapidly down coming ponies created a panic.

Nine hundred meters elevation hiking is considered as easy. But, due to the high altitude it becomes difficult to some. We saw many elderly people were crippling up. Some struggled with altitude sickness.I was worried initially since I developed that during Leh Ladakh trip. Fortunately nothing happened. We managed it quite well. 

Along the way,Karthi was narrating his similar hiking experiences when he was in army. 

Karthi was getting frequent calls from India seeking answer for a single - simple question, but the question was asked repeatedly in hundred different formats!!! Swamy was answering patiently (இங்க பாரு ...நான் தெளிவா சொல்றேன் ...கேட்டுக்க 😄) ,with occasional emotional outburst (லூசா நீ🙉). We saw a different side of Karthi( குடும்பஸ்தன் - பொறுமைசாளி).

Through the half way mark there was a cafeteria. Tiger’s nest view was spectacular from there. 

We met two guys from Kerala at cafeteria. After seeing Shankar’s ‘Kochi marathon t shirt’, they started talking to us. They too planned Bike trip to Bhutan. Parcelled bikes by Indian Railways to siliguri. Bike had gone somewhere else - couldnt trace( Gati story was better ?!). Altered their plan,visited Sikkim first and came to Bhutan by cab. 

There was a water fall just before reaching the Monastery. 

Took almost 4 hours for us to complete the trek. 

Came back to Nivvana resort by 4 pm. Had lunch and drove to Norbuling Hotel, Thimphu.

The distance between Paro and Thimphu is 58kms.Paro Chhu and Thimphu Chhu rivers were all along the road we travelled.At chhuzom bridge both the rivers join to form Wong Chhu or Raidak river which finally joins Brahmaputra. Across this river india built the famous chhukha hydropower project( chhu - river; chhuzom - confluence in bhutanese).

Valleys are wonderful for bike rides. Again that evening ride was amazing.

Norbuling hotel is situated in the main Thimphu town.

There is a football stadium changlimithang in front of the hotel.

Thimphu - Buddha Statue ( Buddha Dordenma) 

31-05-17 Wednesday

Thimphu doesn't have many tourist attractions apart from Buddha statue - one of the largest in the world. It is situated atop of a hill, 7kms from thimphu.This statue is made of bronze and gilded in gold. We spent some quite time inside the big meditation hall. There were 1,25,000 smaller, similar looking Buddha statues,kept inside. 

Then we visited Bhutan Handicraft Exhibition. Bought some souvenirs.

Apart from Indian VIPs (நாங்கதான்😉 ), Japan prime minister also visited Thimphu on that particular day.

The most difficult job is being “jobless”. We were free for more than half day, just resting in the room. Our minds started working out plans to overcome the lost day by altering our itinerary. 

We booked our 1st June night stay at Dewachen Resort ,Phobjikha.

Karthi proposed a plan of skipping Phobjikha valley and directly reaching Trongsa.

I had read positive reviews about Phobjhika valley and was determined to visit. I and Karthi had a gentle,peaceful discussion like how we have it in our WhatsApp group (சட்ட கிழியாததுதான் பாக்கி). As usual Shankar was watching us, by keeping a safe distance.

Thimphu Immigration Office 

1st June, 2017

Well before the Thimphu immigration office was opened, we were waiting there carrying application forms for extended permit. We had to get bike extended permit as well. Travel to Phobjhika valley from Thimphu was 140 kms.

As usual there was some confusion at the immigration office.We had to re-fill different forms and plead them again, explaining our situation. Got the permit by 11 am. Went to RSTA office, got bike permit. By 12 noon we were ready to leave Thimphu.

To be continued...

Buddhan Rajarathinam

15th April, 2018