Bikomaniacs Bhutan Memories - Part 2

Suspenseful Phuntsholing Entry Permit and Midnight Paro Bike Ride

Siliguri - Delayed Bike Delivery by Gati

We were unhappy to be stranded in Siliguri without any progress for two days. As per our initial plan, on 28th May 2017, we would have reached Phuntsholing. So that- the next day Bhutan entry permit, bike permit and travel to Paro would be smooth.

''Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory-George S.Patton''

Life throws different challenges at different times - even when we go for a leisure holiday trip.We face refreshingly new challenges - ones we would have never faced in a day today life; Our minds won’t have any pre-existing neuronal circuits to solve these at ease.This is an integral part of any adventure (bike)trip. But magically, even these tougher moments get embedded in our brain as sweet unforgettable memories! Without these troubles, trips would be bland. 

''Difficult journeys lead to wonderful destinations'' 

Swamy Karthiyanandna gave us a holy speech on (apparently what he had learned at his army Gurukulam )the difference between real problems and inconveniences or discomforts. As per swamy, what we faced were - only trivial discomforts, should be taken lightly and solved just like that🙊🙊. We listened as disciples! 

My bike finally arrived at Gati courier around 3 pm. But unfortunately , being a Sunday, workers were away from work at the parcel office - can’t blame them- left dominated west bengal - labour law!

Their promised day of bike delivery was four days earlier. We had been pleading the managers and workers since two days explaining our situation , to help us. In spite of that - manager told us since no one was available he would be able to give the bike only next day morning. 

Finally, after many rounds of arguements, pleads and swears , at 4 pm, three workers came and started unloading the truck. Bike was invisible, hiding behind pile of heavy packages. After 2 hours of unloading we could see the bike. Bike tank was dented. That was the only major visible damage.Fortunately  engine started. No time to check the bike in detail. Already 8 pm. We needed to start early morning at 4 am and reach phuntsholing by 9 30 am for Bhutan Entry permit. 

We felt relieved. At last our trip had been confirmed!

We did not know that there was an another big hurdle awaiting us in Phuntsholing.

Had spiritual drinks, dinner and slept. 

Siliguri to Phuntsholing : Early Morning Dreamy Ride

Woke up at 4 am.

The distance between Siliguri to Phuntsholing was 150 kms. Bhutan time is 30 minutes ahead of IST. So we had to reach immigration office by 9 am IST( Bhutan 9:30).

In those eastern parts our country summer days are longer. Dawn lighted up the sky early at 4:30 am. By the time we started our bikes the day was fully bright at 5 am.

Siliguri corridor is called “ chicken neck” - providing a vital link between north eastern states and rest of the India. It has two sensitive international borders - Nepal and Bangladesh and a third one ,Bhutan border very close by. Understandably the “chicken neck corridor” is heavily patrolled by Indian army. 

Only when we came out of the town - noticed heavy army presence. All of a sudden Siliguri appeared beautiful- well maintained army quarters, lawns, jogging jawans , excellent roads, breezy cold wind, tall trees on both the sides of the road...

Mornings have a medidative calmness in their wind. That syncs well with our clutter free mind - bringing a beautiful harmony. City was still asleep allowing us to enjoy the early morning silence.Rising sun was painting magical colours in the sky. 

Early morning bike rides are always special. Chilly weather and first day of our bike trip after a tense previous day - made it extra pleasurable. 

Roads were empty. 

Our journey was filled with a few intercepting villages, rivers, bridges and lots of open space with picturesque himalayan mountain backdrop. 

We crossed three rivers- teesta , torsha, jaldhaka.

Within 20-30 kms from siliguri at Sevoke we were presented a beautiful view of River Teesta coming out through a gorge. We stood over Coronation bridge (which was built in 1941), facing the river soaking up the nature -the sounds of river stream, breeze flowing through trees, bird chirping. Feast to eyes and ears -soothing to mind and soul.

Nearing phuntsholing there was a huge traffic jam. We slithered through heavy trucks and reached the gate between India and Bhutan. Yes literally there was a gate guarded by securities!That was the first time I saw an international border. They checked our passport details and allowed us to enter phuntsholing. 

                                            

Anxious Moments - Bhutan Entry Permit - Phuntsholing

Anyone would have been dumbfounded by the striking difference within 100 meters distance of India and Bhutan.

Less crowded. Everything seemed so neat and clean- in a proper order. Everyone followed road rules- even pedestrians - moved across the road only at zebra crossings.NO HONKING. Buildings too followed certain discipline-uniformly structured-constructed based on a sets of guidelines! People were very polite and courteous including policemen and other officials. 

Within minutes, our pleasant feeling about Bhutan disappeared when we reached the Immigration office. We noticed there was a huge un-organised crowd or better described as “Indian crowd”- gathered at the immigration office entrance. Bhutan authorities were ill equipped to handle such a mad rush.

There were two reasons for this unprecedented crowd. 

One , recently - a week before,they changed the immigration - entry permit rules.Before that, it used to be a simple passport check and issuance of  permit letter in less than two hours(this is what we anticipated based on the internet data).They changed that into almost like a proper visa procedure - application, verification,finger print scanning, iris scanning,photograph etc.This change was not informed by anyone - neither by tourism information centre nor the hotels where we booked our accommodation.

Secondly, that was the only working day snatched between flurry of holidays. We were not aware of the national census holidays when we finalised the dates- all of a sudden they decided without any prior notification. 

After seeing the crowd and knowing the entry permit procedure - I had serious doubts about our chances of getting the permits and proceeding further. 

Uncertainty and hunger created frustration and anger. Again swamy Karthikeyanandha along with Shankaranandha calmed me down.

All the officials were in Bhutan traditional attire. Most of them were chewing pan. They all looked relaxed and calm , carrying out their work in spite of the chaos surrounding  them. They worked strictly between 9:30 am to 4 pm. One hour lunch break between 1 pm to 2 pm. We needed to get entry and bike permits before 4 pm.

First we had to fill the application form with a photograph and give a detailed itinerary including hotel booking details. We did not have photocopy of hotel reservation documents. Karthi was filling the application. Shankar was writing itinerary details. I went to take print outs of hotel reservation details.

Frenziedly searched for a internet cafe. Found one nearby. Hurriedly entered and logged in to my mail.

OMG! Another shock.

It asked me to authenticate login by entering password which was sent to my mobile. My mobile’s battery was 4% and was out of network since we crossed the border. Time was running out. I almost panicked, did not know what to do. Felt helpless for a moment.Then suddenly there was an idea - activated my international roaming.Within a minute before battery die completely I got the password and entered. 

It was like someone was testing our patience relentlessly - one hurdle after the other.We were determined and tried to be optimistic. 

I was the angrier one. The other two were calming me down.

The reason was, I planned everything - subconsciously I was feeling guilty - could have done a better research before finalising the dates and hotel booking.

We applied for the entry permit. Had breakfast. 

We were waiting to be called for the verification and scanning.Impatiently every second was moving.

At around 12 noon, they called us to the first floor of the building.

Everywhere crowded. We had to wait in a long queue again. After the verification and scans they would print the permit slip.

We were very close to getting the entry permit.

We were eagerly waiting with racing heart beats.

1 pm. 

Next second they closed all the counters, saying lunch break. 

What the f***.

We had to get bike permit , pollution check. We heard that RSTA (Road Safety and Transport Authority) office closes by 3 pm. Our chances seemed slimmer and slimmer as the day progressed.

Shankar and Karthi proposed an idea of going to the transport office for the bike permit in the mean time. I did not like the idea. But agreed.

When we reached RSTA office , which was situated in a different location, near bus stand. They allowed us to fill the application form for the bike permit and pay the fee - allowed us to do everything to get the bike permit.They told us “Once you get the entry permit - show us that and get the bike permit”.

Thank god ( and swamys🙏) we went there early, otherwise we would not have had this wonderful trip.

We bought Bhutan local sim cards.Bhutan rupee is of same value as Indian rupee. Indian money is accepted everywhere. 

At two pm karthi went alone to immigration office and got the entry permits. 

By 4 pm - everything was done. A big sigh of relief.

Our Bhutan tour had been re- confirmed once again!

If you think this is the end of suspenseful events we encountered that day - you are wrong!

Ride to Paro

After lunch we proceeded towards Paro for the night stay. The distance from Phuntsholing to Paro was 160 kms - hundred percent ghat section. We thought it would take four hours to reach Paro.We booked our stay at Nivvana Lodge & Homestay 6 kms away from Paro.

Once we hit ghat roads - evening ride was amazing. 

Graceful twilight,twisting and turning hill roads, cold breeze, unparalleled mountain views...Stopped in few places to enjoy the scenery and take photos.

Day light started fading fast. Intermittently mists added to visibility woes. 

We were driving continuously without many breaks - but distance was not coming down at all. Looked like secretly someone was adding kilometers . And google map navigation stopped working in Bhutan. We had to check repeatedly and re confirm now and then that we were on the right path. 

At 8 pm we had crossed only half of the distance. Still 60 kms were more. It became cold and, dark - started drizzling. Without proper riding pants shankar and karthi were struggling. I could manage - even enjoy the ride. By seeing the growing distance at one moment we thought of halting somewhere for the night. From the Nivvana hotel they had kept calling me from 7pm. They were tracking our progress.

Finally at 11 pm we entered Paro. By seeing a spiritual liquid shop at the entrance of Paro shankar stopped desperately.

We were pleasantly surprised to see people were awake at 11 pm. Without google’s navigation, we relied on local strangers. 

With some difficulty we found our Lodge/Homestay in a remote dark place.Suddenly so many dogs started barking at once from nearby houses or resorts - created a nice set up for the climax of that suspenseful day🙀!

Even at that odd time, 11:30 pm , the hotel people - run by mainly four ladies😻- welcomed us  with smiling faces and served hot food.

We were physically and mentally exhausted. 

Our Journey started at 4 am and ended at 11:30 pm. 320 kms covered including 160 kms of ghat section. To add on to it - testing 7 hours at Phuntsholing. 

Felt happy in the end - we could cover up two days plan in one day and successfully cross the border and reach safely Paro! 

Joyfully we thought that our trip was going to be smooth from here on and slept - without knowing ‘’still lots of unexpected adventures are ahead”.

Buddhan Rajarathinam
7th April, 2018