Bikomaniacs Bhutan Memories - Final Part

Bike trips are highly addictive. Once tasted it makes “metal box journeys “ less enjoyable. You start longing for another trip immediately after finishing one. Horse riding and flying on the back of a tigress are, may be, a few other comparable modes to motor bike riding.

3rd June, 2017 - 6th day

Waking up in the morning knowing not to go to work ignites an excitement. In stead of being caught up in the web of concrete jungle traffic , free on a motorbike - close to the nature,adds to the joy. Every cell in our body craves for newness. When we provide that - in abundance- to our senses, celebration begins.

Mountain Roads

After crossing Punakha , by seeing road conditions,we were prepared for an adventurous ride. Interiors of Bhutan is an ideal place to study and get a “doctorate in bad roads”. We saw all kinds of roads - dusty, slippery,full of potholes, gravel ridden , a foot deep mud, stream flowing across, part of the road landslide into the valley...

Road construction and maintenance in a high altitude himalayan mountain terrain carry many challenges. Apart from rains, landslides , harsh weather conditions -sub zero temperature - snow formation during winter - weaken the road. Roads require repeated maintenance and relaying works. During Leh Ladakh trip we experienced similar road conditions.

Our destination for that day was Zhemgang. A small remote place in the middle of thick forest - Royal Manas National park, which homes many endangered species.We could not pre book accommodation since the place was invisible. Google map was not showing any routes to Zhemgang and Gelephu. Many times roads leading to these two destinations are completely blocked due to land slides. Thimphu immigration officials told us roads were motorable and permitted us to visit.Interior parts of Bhutan did not look as posh as Thimphu and Paro; mimicked typical Indian villages.

When riding a motorbike on these difficult conditions survival instincts take control over the situation. We were riding slow and steady in the middle of the path avoiding the unfenced edges. We  were extremely cautious not to fall down on the wet,slippery mud roads. There are some techniques to be followed in such roads. One should drive with clutch on to get a better grip of the road - that means not holding the clutch lever. Drive with slow steady pace avoiding brake. If one had to apply brake ,do it gradually with both the brakes.

We reached reached Trongsa (85kms) at 2 pm. Roads had been consistently bad. 

Like Indian voters, with no other option, we were hoping for better days or hours ahead. But the roads were like our politicians - promisingly degrading.

Had lunch at Trongsa. Enquired about roads. One naughty fellow winked and told “super roads are ahead”. We realised the meaning only, later.The Stretch between Trongsa and Zhemgang and Zhemgang to Gelephu were the worst among all. 

Due to bad roads, again we were forced to drive in the night time- fourth time in a row.Another similar night ride as phobjikha and Paro. Cold ,dark -thick forest. Shankar was freezing without proper winter protection. Again the distance was growing. When there was just one kilometre to the destination - shivering shankar adamantly stopped us at a tea shop. 

As expected no big lodges were there. We took accommodation - with basic facility.

4th June, 2017

Morning after breakfast started towards gelephu.Almost the whole day we were travelling through thick forest. 

Dangerous Drive 

At around 2 pm there was a traffic jam. 

 Due to heavy rain in the night, part of the road - at the edge had disappeared - slid into the valley. Wooden sticks were kept as fence to prevent someone accidentally entering that spot.

The previous night a man had fallen down through that who was helping two jeeps to cross each other. He had unknowingly stepped into that hollow part of road and disappeared in to the deep valley. Due to mist and rains rescue work had been delayed till the next day noon.

Army rescue people blocked the road. An army person had  gone down the valley in search of the “body”.

We waited for almost an hour. They could not find him; temporarily abandoned the rescue operation. Traffic resumed. That was the dangerous part of our trip.

Due to mist and drizzle visibility was very poor. Post traffic jam , jeep drivers were rash.Shankar just escaped a kiss from a speeding Jeep. We were moving  very slowly and cautiously. 

We were riding downhill; gradually mist cleared ;weather changed into hot and humid. 

“Hot Spring” - surprise 

Suddenly we noticed a sign board - “hot springs - 2kms”.

Wondered - never heard about any hot springs in Bhutan. Curiously followed the path. After about 30 minutes, found the “hot spring restaurant” in the middle of the jungle!

Drizzling continued. At around 4 pm we entered plains, reached Gelephu.

Gelephu is a small beautiful town at the himalayan foothills with broad nicely paved roads and lots of trees. Stopped for lunch. We discussed whether to cross the border or stay in Gelephu for the night. Tired of continuous night rides , decided to halt.Had Spiritual drinks. Watched cricket match between Ind vs Pak( Champions Trophy).

5th June, 2017

Next day we started early at 6:30 am. Wanted to reach Guwahati(230kms) before five pm to parcel Karthi and Shankar’s bikes. 

When we reached the exit gate of Gelephu - we got the final shock!

Few policemen were there. They told us casually -“wait till the office opens - that is 9:30 am”. When we requested, after some time they reluctantly checked our papers - talked to their higher official through phone and allowed us to exit, Bhutan. A big sigh of relief. 

Again there was a contrasting difference when we entered Assam- bad roads, poor traffic sense, crowd.

Started raining. But the ride was enjoyable. Both the sides of the road we could see lush green paddy fields, banana plantations, palm trees...

                                      

After about 30 kms joined national high way. Shocked to see the way people were using NH;both the two lanes were used as two separate roads for two way traffic! Instead of four lane it became two two lanes. What an idea sirji !Traffic was sparse though. But dangerous due to this unique“Indian style”.

We stopped for tea. That shop belonged to an elderly Bangaladesi migrant couple.By seeing us small crowd gathered. After knowing we were from TN, they started enquiring about “amma”. They were praising her; wanted someone like her for their state! Innocent poor village people. 

Reached Gawahati earlier than expected. Karthi and shankar went to parcel their bikes. Next day flight to chennai for them.

Pranjali had arrived from chennai. We had gone to RE service centre for a quick bike check, before our Meghalaya trip.

Farewell 

Had farewell dinner. 

We were very happy in the end - to complete the trip safely without any major misadventure. Managed trivial discomforts well - with the help of swamys! Thanked our companions who carried us through the difficult journey without even a minor trouble.

Cheered with spiritual drinks.Exchanged good byes.

Next day early morning our Meghalaya bike trip started. 

                                                                     The End.

Buddhan Rajarathinam

16th May, 2018